Monday, January 23, 2012

Bissell 14005 Little Green Compact Carpet Cleaner

!±8±Bissell 14005 Little Green Compact Carpet Cleaner

Brand : Bissell
Rate :
Price : $80.00
Post Date : Jan 23, 2012 10:19:33
Usually ships in 24 hours



The Little Green compact carpet cleaner has multiple cleaning uses. It can be used to clean spots & stains on carpeting, upholstery, car interiors, stairs, and much more. It is lightweight at 12 lbs. and extremely easy to use. The clean and dirty water tanks are simple to fill and empty. The Little Green has a long 20 foot power cord and compact design (sits easily on a stair) so cleaning hard-to-reach areas is easy. The included Tough Stain Brush helps get out deep down dirt and stains.

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Monday, January 16, 2012

How to Make a Rain Barrel

Introducing Rain Brothers' new automatic downspout diverter and DIY rain barrel kit for use with rainwater harvesting systems. You can, literally, build and install a rain barrel in under 30 minutes with this new kit -- and a quality rain barrel, at that... designed by professionals with the customer in mind. How many hardware trips have you made trying to construct your own rain barrel? How many experiments in rainwater harvesting have failed because of leaks, insufficient overflow, unsightly appearance, etc.? We at Rain Brothers, LLC have been designing, constructing, and installing rainwater harvesting systems -- both residential- and commercial-scale -- in the Ohio Region for over five years, and we have seen virtually every type of DIY rain barrel out there. There are several recurring issues we've noticed, including: 1) Difficult installation 2) Insufficient inlet size into the barrel/tank 3) Insufficient overflow, causing water to back up and spill out of the barrel/tank and on to the homeowner's foundation 4) Unattractive set-ups and bulky installations. Our new DIY kit addresses these issues and offers a thoughtful, high-quality, affordable solution. For under , you get: *Three hole saws (for drilling/installing valves and downspout diverter) *3/4" gate valve/garden hose valve *3/4" drain nipple with cap *Two threaded rubber grommets for water-tight and easy installation of valve and drain plug *1-1/2" rubber grommet for water-tight inlet into tank/barrel *3 ...

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Monday, January 2, 2012

Mortar and Concrete Mixes

!±8± Mortar and Concrete Mixes

I suppose a lot of folk think that mortar and concrete aren't really worth writing an article about--after all, you just mix them, and get on with the job that you're going to use them for. However, different jobs require different materials, and different quantities of those materials. The guide here is one that I've followed successfully over the years, and I hope it will prove beneficial to you as well. As weights of sand and ballast or quarry chips etc. vary due to their water content, the following guidelines are given by volume.

For a concrete path use 1:5, where 1 stands for ordinary dry cement, and 5 is for the sand and ballast. For concrete steps, make the mix maybe a bit stronger, 1:4. If you're laying bricks, it's 1:4 (soft sand). For rendering, use 1:4 (2 fine-washed and 2 soft sand). If you're doing a floor screed, it should be 1:3 (sharp sand). Additives are available for many tasks if required. Plasticiser is excellent in mortar, but be careful not to use too much. A frost proofer can help if the temperature drops to around the zero mark, although I prefer not to work with cement if it's that cold, just to be on the safe side. If it is cold or damp, you could use an accelerator to speed up the drying time to about an hour, although I must admit that I like it to dry naturally. For rendering, you'll need a waterproofer in the first coat, so that it doesn't bridge any damp proof course. You'll also need it if tanking a basement.

For tools, you should use 2 shovels--one for the dry stuff, the other for the wet. You'll need a couple of buckets, a trowel, a garden hose (an outside tap is very handy), a board (if mixing by hand), and a wheelbarrow.

If you have a fairly big job, you're better off with a mixer, hired if you don't own one. If you have one that sits on a stand, make sure it's properly chocked before you start it. Put in most of the water first, then half the ballast, leave turning for a couple of minutes, then add half of the cement. Pour in the rest of the water, add the remaining ballast and cement, and leave to mix for about three minutes. You should then find that the concrete falls smoothly off the blades. Tip the mix into the barrow while the mixer drum is still turning. Pour water into the mixer to help cement from drying on the sides--this water is then handy when you start your next batch. When you've finished with the mixer, make sure you give it a proper clean, both inside and outside the drum. I remember my first boss telling me that I should be able to drink the water out of it if I'd done the cleaning properly. I tend to remember this when cleaning any tools.

If it's a smaller task, you can easily mix the required amount by hand. Place the sand or sand/aggregate on a board or similar hard, even surface. Add the dry cement and mix well, using a square nosed shovel (as distinct from the round mouthed). Form a well in the centre by pulling the dry mixture out on all sides. Pour in half of the required water and any additive that you want to use. Gently prod the dry ingredients into the liquid, and start turning it. If there's a mate handy, get him to lend a hand, as it's much easier when it's being turned on both sides. Add the rest of the water, mix well again, and sort of chop through it with the shovel--this will show any unmixed parts, or any parts that are too wet.

You might want or need colouring in your mortar or concrete. If so, it's available in powder form. Make sure that you always measure it carefully, so as to avoid changes of colour in the different batches.


Mortar and Concrete Mixes

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